10/16-10/18
A run down of my favorite things in Crete:
1. Bogastas and coffee: In Heraklion, one of the most famous breakfast foods are bogatsas, these phyllo pastries filled with cheese or cream, drenched in honey and topped with nuts. Incredible with Greek coffee.
2. Adam, bargaining with an old Greek guy for a rental car. Adam, after introducing himself, was hereafter referred to as "Adonis." The bargaining consisted of Adam listing all the scrapes, bangs, and accidents he could possibly get our rental car into (including a demo of punching his left hand with his right fist, which indicated 'crashing into a wall') and asking the old Greek guy if everything on that list was covered under our insurance. The guy took it all in good humor, shook his head and said "so if you get into accident, you want I should pay? 32 years I have been in business, and this is good for you bad for me. Sorry -- cannot." But as a peace offering, he gave both of us a handful of grapes before bidding us goodbye.
3. Knossos. The palace of Knossos, famous for the Minoan labrinyth, unearthed and reconstructed by German Arthur Evans. Each plaque on the ground of the ruins consists of Evan's somewhat dubious ruminations on form and function:
"Evans hypothesized that this throne was used for objects of worship."
"Evans thought this must be the Queen's quarters with adjoining bathroom for her washings and preparations."
Or my favorite, "Evans believed this to be the site of rituals both sacred and profane." I was wondering what rituals might be both sacred and profane.
My question was answered when we stepped into the gift shop and the first thing we saw was a brass reproduction of a Minoan man, lying down and being fucked by a sheep. Going to Knossos was definitely one of the more cultural things that we've done so far.
4. Matala, a hippie town in the south of Crete. It's a tiny town with a nude beach, Red Beach, which was a long hike over some steep cliff. The route was overzealously signed with hundreds of spray painted blue arrows pointing every which way. We figured there must be a pressing monetary reason to get us to the nude beach or some enthusiastic nudist behind the whole operation. When we got there we were somewhat disappointed to find
only a handful of fat German nudists sunning themselves.
Hiked back to the main beach, took a swim in this beautiful protected cove with a sandy bottom, surrounded by rocks harboring tons of caves that were supposedly hippie hideouts in the 60s and 70s. Camped out on the beach after finding nothing for less than 25 euros. Camping was free, but we had to deal with 2 weirdo German kids who were clearly tweaked out, walking circles around the bushes.
The cove and harbor of Matala lit up at night looks just like Disney's Pirates of the Caribbean. You totally expect the fat lady with the head scarf to throw open the shutters of her upstairs whorehouse and solicit business on the streets, with some drunken pirates singing atop barrels on the docks.
A run down of my favorite things in Crete:
1. Bogastas and coffee: In Heraklion, one of the most famous breakfast foods are bogatsas, these phyllo pastries filled with cheese or cream, drenched in honey and topped with nuts. Incredible with Greek coffee.
2. Adam, bargaining with an old Greek guy for a rental car. Adam, after introducing himself, was hereafter referred to as "Adonis." The bargaining consisted of Adam listing all the scrapes, bangs, and accidents he could possibly get our rental car into (including a demo of punching his left hand with his right fist, which indicated 'crashing into a wall') and asking the old Greek guy if everything on that list was covered under our insurance. The guy took it all in good humor, shook his head and said "so if you get into accident, you want I should pay? 32 years I have been in business, and this is good for you bad for me. Sorry -- cannot." But as a peace offering, he gave both of us a handful of grapes before bidding us goodbye.
3. Knossos. The palace of Knossos, famous for the Minoan labrinyth, unearthed and reconstructed by German Arthur Evans. Each plaque on the ground of the ruins consists of Evan's somewhat dubious ruminations on form and function:
"Evans hypothesized that this throne was used for objects of worship."
"Evans thought this must be the Queen's quarters with adjoining bathroom for her washings and preparations."
Or my favorite, "Evans believed this to be the site of rituals both sacred and profane." I was wondering what rituals might be both sacred and profane.
4. Matala, a hippie town in the south of Crete. It's a tiny town with a nude beach, Red Beach, which was a long hike over some steep cliff. The route was overzealously signed with hundreds of spray painted blue arrows pointing every which way. We figured there must be a pressing monetary reason to get us to the nude beach or some enthusiastic nudist behind the whole operation. When we got there we were somewhat disappointed to find
only a handful of fat German nudists sunning themselves.
Hiked back to the main beach, took a swim in this beautiful protected cove with a sandy bottom, surrounded by rocks harboring tons of caves that were supposedly hippie hideouts in the 60s and 70s. Camped out on the beach after finding nothing for less than 25 euros. Camping was free, but we had to deal with 2 weirdo German kids who were clearly tweaked out, walking circles around the bushes.
The cove and harbor of Matala lit up at night looks just like Disney's Pirates of the Caribbean. You totally expect the fat lady with the head scarf to throw open the shutters of her upstairs whorehouse and solicit business on the streets, with some drunken pirates singing atop barrels on the docks.
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